I'm back - a birthday in Kazakhstan!

Day 22 and 23,

First thing's first: A very happy birthday to my wonderful sister, Caroline. Happy belated to my dear cousin Leah and to my good friend Jeremy and happy belated 1st birthday to that cute little pie Carson Michelle! I love you all!

Let me tell you, a birthday here in Kokshetau is no laughing matter! We were busy all day long, too busy even to blog. So for those of you who wondered what in the heck happened to your morning installment of Snyders2Kaz, I'm sorry. My extensive social engagments kept me otherwise occupied.

So the morning started, quite as usual, with Calvin tapping his little hand rhythmically and none too gently on my forehead. Since Calvin shares a bedroom with me and Tim, this morning drumbeat has become our the start of our daily routine. Calvin hops out of bed just at the stroke of seven and trips over to our bed, where still sucking a thumb he chants "mommy, mommy, mommy, mommy" and uses his free hand to tap on my forehead until I wake up. It's charming.

After dragging myself out of bed and navigating the steep wooden staircase with a toddler in hand and only one bleary eye open, Calvin remembered that it was my birthday and, panicing slightly, sent me back upstairs. He and Nana, who he similarily pulled from bed, then spent the next 10 minutes busily decorating the downstairs of the cottage. When I came downstairs the second time, Cal's little face was glowing with anticipation. He was so proud of his "Happy Birthday Mommy" posters and dangling balloons. It was darling to see him so excited. That little look on his face, alone, made my birthday compete. I'm one lucky lady. Calvin also chose a beautiful bouquet and cake!Then Makhabbat showed up with this awesome Kazakhstani beach towel.

Next, Tim and I were off to the babyhouse to see Garrett. The caretakers sent us to the activity room with a walker and Garrett happily propelled himself after the bumpy green ball. Then we played some very exciting games of peek-a-boo until Makhabbat came in and swooped Garrett up, promising enigmatically to return in 5 minutes. When she returned, she had Garrett dressed in his pillowly blue snowsuit with a small "happy birthday" card pinned to the front. I thanked her for my "present" and we took my highly padded baby into the great outdoors. Garrett is miserable in that suit, but he submitted to his pillowly confinement with only a little whimper of protest. Calvin spent the day with his buddy Ali.In the early evening it was time for us all to head down to the "School for the Talented Children" for a performance in our honor! We met with the director of the school who ushered us into a large auditorium in which a single row of folding chairs had been lined up. The other blond in the picture is an adoptive mom named Thelma from NY who just arrived in the city to adopt a 6-year-old. Makhabbat is also her interpretor, so she came along as well. For the next hour, we were treated to performances from children ages 3-17.

This young man was a particular favorite and sung about 6 songs for us in a rich baritone voice. The girls sitting next to mom thought that he was dreamy.

After the concert, the director asked us to get up on the stage with a few of the performers so that we could have our picture taken with them for their records. Can you spot Calvin? After the concert, the director invited us back to her office, where her assistants had spread a large table of food for us, similar to what we were served at nauryz. For a moment, I was terrified that I would again have to face a cup of mare's milk tea, but fortunately the birthday gods smiled down on us and we were each offered a cup of steaming chai instead. Talk about hospitality! We are constantly impressed by the endless generousity of our Kazakh hosts, but all the same, after an hour-long tea, Calvin's patience was completely spent and we were happy to be excused.

But the birthday extravaganza didn't end here. Makhabbat had suggested that we check out the bowling alley, so off we went for more birthday fun. Calvin LOVED the bowling alley... or "Bowling Finale" as he calls it. He was so pleased when his ball made it "all the way to the end" of the alley and would jump up and down in excitement. He told us today that "we should come back to Kazakhstan so that we can go bowling again." Pretty cute. Makhabbat and her daughter, Arajan, were supposed to meet us at the alley, but at the last second had to duck out. We were pretty tired, so after one round, we went back home for a quick dinner, some presents and cake. We didn't get Calvin to bed until 10:30! He was sooo pleased.

And that was my birthday in Kazakhsan. Whew! What a day.

Today Garrett didn't feel like having his picture taken. I think he might be coming down with a little cold, so we just rocked and rocked the whole afternoon. Hopefully tomorrow he'll perk up and we'll have more smiling pictures to post.

Love you all!

Paka,

Becca

The Great Outdoors - Babyhouse style!

Day 22

Another stunning blue sky greeted us in Schuchinsk this morning, bringing with it the excitment of Garrett's very first excursion outdoors! Yes, at over seven months old, Garrett has never been outside! The children here are permitted to play outside. In fact, the older children take daily walks, even in the winter. But Garrett hasn't been around long enough to see the warm season in Kazakhstan and so today we were present for his first moments under the sun and sky!

Garrett, however, was hardly able enjoy the outing, because he could hardly see out of his snowsuit! Even though it was a beautiful day that didn't even warrant a sweater for Mama, Garrett had to be in three underlayers, a snowsuit, a hat with earmuffs, and a scarf over his cheeks and mouth. You couldn't even feel him through his pillowy blue suit. I told Tim that they successfully disguised our baby as an empty snowsuit.Only his big light brown eyes with those huge lashes were visable between layers, looking sleepier with each passing moment. THe heat really got to him and by the time we were called back inside and the caregivers took off the snowsuit, he was dripping with sweat and had a small heat rash developing behind his ears, something the caregivers noted with the quiet satisfaction of a job well done. Tim accurately quoted Randy of the Christmas Story saying "I can't put my arms down!"


Why the heavy snowsuit? Attitudes towards childhood are very different in the former soviet union than in America. Babies are considered extremely fragile and suseptible to illness. Kazakhstanis believe that birth damages the child and that extensive medical treatments are needed to help the baby recover from this trauma. All of the babies here receive months of massage to rehabilitate them from the aftereffects of birth trauma.

While we were outside, our favorite group of big kids came out for their outside play time. They were so happy to be outside!!! The caregiver seemed to be having a good time too, because she led the kids in a happy little conga line...and waved to a friend in the infirmary...and then she broke out a package of chalk and the kiddos doodled on the pavement and walls of the babyhouse.

I've said it before, but I have to say it again. There is so much fear surrounding the adoption of toddlers, but seeing what I've seen, I couldn't be more comfortable these little guys. They are loveable and charming and so ready for a home. Here's my favorite little cutie, Sasha, again. I just can't resist taking pictures of him. He's such a little sweetie. Today I saw him hand a piece of chalk to the french woman that is adopting here. He said "Here you go, Mama." She said, "I'm not your mama, I'm Karina's Mama." I couldn't take it. It just broke my heart. When we got back inside and striped Garrett down, he perked back up and wanted to play.

When our time was up, we got a lesson from Garrett's favorite caregiver in "swaddling 101." Let's just say that I'm not a quick study. But, while I was swaddling, Tim got some great pictures of the sleeping area (Garrett has crib #2, Tim's lucky number) and even one of a little bug who was in the highchair.

It was a good day at the orphanage, but our adventures didn't stop when we got back to the cottage. Calvin, who has struck up a fast friendship with the neighbor boy, Ali, was refusing his nap. He pretended to be asleep for a while, then with no apparent catalyst came racing downstairs, shouting "Open the door. Open the door. My favorite person is outside!" He turned the lock and swung open the door to reveal Ali smiling shyly on the porch. Calvin must have been looking out the window upstairs and seen Ali come over to play. They played cars and shared snacks for about an hour. It was so cute to see Ali prattling away in Russian and then Calvin prattling away in English. Neither of them seemed to notice that they couldn't understand each other!

Tim and I went for a walk around town later and ended up being tailed by several twelve year old boys, Anton and Vlad. After they followed us up and down alleys and side streets giggling. When we finally realized that they were going to make an afternoon of "following the Americans," we stopped and called them over for a picture. They walked the next five miles with us, spouting the few English phrases they knew. "California," I'd say. "California?" Anton repeated. "Disneyland?" I'd say. "Ah, Disneyland!" They'd say. We learned that they liked "basketball" and "Musica 'Fifty Cent'." They were especially impressed with Tim's 'machina' the "Americanski Moostang!"

We finally lost Anton and Vlad at the grocery store. We were sure that if they saw the cottage they would show up again tomorrow. They sure had fun walking the streets of Kokshetau with the Americanski!

Paka,

Becca

Vinegrete

Day 21

The caretakers have a new nickname for Garrett: "Vinigrete," the Russian word for grapes, on account of the silly purple grape hat I put him in every couple of days. When we show up they say "Posh lee, posh lee, Vinigrete! Mama ee Papa!" (Let's go, let's go, Grapes! Mama and Daddy are here!) Here are some pictures of my sweet little bunch of grapes today.
Yes, we took off the hat... but isn't his hair growing in nicely! He's so smart.

I've said it before, but isn't he a cute little bug!

(Calvin is checking out this blog over my shoulder and has recommended that I add "exlamation points to show that we are 'cited to 'dopt my baby brother." So here we go... Hooray for adopting Garrett!!!)

That's all I've got for today... not many comments anyway, so why bother, right... ;)

Paka!

Becca

Tid Bits

Day 20

No subject matter today, just tid bits from our day.

1. What's in Becca's i-pod? Having a full ipod is a must on the long drive to and from Schuchinsk each day. I loaded mine up with audiobooks before I left and so far have listened to Vicas Swarup's "Q & A" (a.k.a. Slumdog Millionare), Bernhard Schlink's "The Reader," and the hilarious P.G. Wodehouse's "Code of the Woosters." That is a combined total of over 20 hours of audiobooks. That drive really adds up! Right now I'm listening to "A Confederacy of Dunces" by John Kennedy Toole. It's really good! When I don't feel like "reading," I've found myself drawn to a ridiculous mix of 1970s and 80s pop, including: "Walking on Sunshine" by Katrina & the Waves, "Me and Julio Down By the Schoolyard" by Paul Simon, and "Crazy Little Thing Called Love" by Queen, just to name a few. There is something enjoyably, almost hysterically, incongruous about listen to the Pointer Sisters "Jump for my Love" (the song that Hugh Grant dances to in Love, Actually) while driving through the muddy and crumbling outskirts of Kokshetau.

2. After over two weeks in Kazakhstan, today we found an American style grocery store. Now, don't get me wrong... I'm not the kind of traveler who is spending this precious time in Kazakhstan wishing that I was back in America. There is a definate charm to the scavenger-hunt shopping of the Viola Market, where you ask Ula for some tea (chai), pay, and then ask Zena for some cherry juice (vshe sok) and bottled water (bottelka vadre), pay, then ask the surly bread clerk for 2 loaves (deva klerba, pajaloosta) and pay... but when your vocabulary is as limited as ours is, it is awful nice to be able to walk up to the shelf and pick up what you want!

3. Calvin is a wild man on his little Kazakh bike. Lance Armstrong (or Leonard Armstrong as Makhabbat calls him) is one of the few American athletes anyone knows here because he rides for the Kazakhstani team Astana. Makhabbat is sure that Calvin is going to give him a run for his money! In the three days that he has been riding, Calvin has all but mastered that little bike. He can pedal, steer, and of course ring his bell all at the same time! Cal loves to ring his bell at everyone as he speeds around Kokshetau on his little green machine.

Here is Calvin biking around Kokshetau!

4. The neighbors here are starting to get to know us. Once solemn and watchful, the folks in the building around us are starting to smile at us as we pass. Some even startle us by shouting "Hallo!" and then smiling knowingly as if they are in on our little secret. While I would love to make some friends or at least easy acquaintences while we are here, I find that these greetings put me in an akward predicament. We have been cautioned repeatedly by those "in the know" not to make ourselves too visable as Americans and certainly never to tell anyone that we are here to adopt. But when a pretty young mother, Nadia, from across the street practiced her English on us while letting her one year old Ana admire Calvin's bike, these warnings burdened me so heavily that I wanted to escape back to the cottage as quickly as possible. At the same time it seemed so silly, I can tell that she's really nice.

From the belly dance instructor, a lean blond ex-gymnast with a pert little nose and inch-long maroon nails, to the sweet clerks at the Viola market, to the little boys playing cars with Calvin outside... everyone has been really nice. It feels both false and unnecessary to be so guarded. Mom, especially, has a tough time keeping a low profile. I may have mentioned before that all of Kazakhstan seems to have fallen deeply in love with my mother. Well, the feeling is recipricated by Mom who navigates the Kokshetau streets with a beaming California smile waving at small children and lobing friendly "preevets" at curious onlookers. I'm inclined to join her and, using my best judgement, cautiously enjoy my neighbors while I'm here!Here is a picture of Calvin being handfed sunflower seeds by his favorite clerk Ula at the Viola market. She smothers him with kisses when they meet. Here is the family next door. The eldest daughter speaks a little english and the son, Ali, is Calvin's fast friend. When we asked them to take this picture, Calvin ran up and held Ali's hand.

Here is a picture of Calvin playing with the neighbors. The boys have switched cars and the girls are happily giggling at the Americans.

5. For those of you who are interested, I uploaded the pictures of Sasha and Kerial from my posting four days ago. Check out the blog posting called "Garrett's Playtime and the Big Kid Lunch" and scroll to the bottom for pictures of these highly adoptable cutie pies in their frilly aprons helping with lunch.

6. Our baby is absolutely adorable and practically perfect in every way. He was all smiles when we arrived today. We have so much fun together. I wish I could take him home right now!!! We are so ready for our court date!

7. We left Garrett in his orphanage clothes today so that you would be able to see what he is dressed in before we pick him up. The babies here don't get diaper rash because they don't wear diapers. They just have these cotton overall leggings on all the time.

Paka!

Becca

Spring is Here!

Day 19

It's official. Spring has come to Kazakhstan. Though there is still nary a blade of green grass to be seen, the occurance of two sunny days in a row has wrought a change on the people of Kokshetau. Everyone is outside today. Grown women walk arm and arm in slightly thinner leather coats that usual. The last of the snow, sprayed brown from the sludge of passing cars, is being shoveled into the streets to melt. Families are tidying up the yards and walkways outside their homes, picking up bottles and wrappers that were left there all winter long. Kids are playing. Young mothers sit quietly on benches holding babies so heavily swaddled that they look like pastel bundles of laundry.

While the scenary is not alive with growth, there is a definate thawing in the people of Kazakhstan. The Kazakhs are soaking up the sun and I'm with them. It feels great!

As further evidence of spring, there are new fruit and vegis at the local market. Last week heralded the arrival of cucumbers, which we have consumed daily with the same moans of satisfaction typically reserved for decadent pieces of chocolate cake. Then yesterday, you could have blown me over with a feather, because Calvin greeted me at the door with... green grapes! I think I might actually have danced for joy. Today we found lettuce and parsley and bananas and were so proud that we actually took a picture of the bounty. This is what a couple weeks of late winter in Kazakhstan will do to you. Never again will I take Safeway for granted. I might even hug the clerk who is stocking peaches!
Oh, fun story... We were asking our driver Nursultan how he likes the van he just bought last week. He said that he liked it, but that the smell of the previous owner's smoking bothered him. At this our translator, Makhabbat, laughed and said that at least this car didn't smell like sheep. "Sheep?" we asked. Nursultan wouldn't explain, but Makhabbat was happy to. It seems that a couple months ago Nursultan offered to do a friend a favor by driving his sheep from one farm to another. At the time Nursultan only owned a 1994 Audi sedan. Makhabbat said that for weeks after chauffering the sheep, Nursultan's car smelled wretched. But, she added, at least he had transported it in the trunk of the car. Only in Kazakhstan would someone drive around with a live sheep in the trunk of an old audi! Classic.

I got some good pictures on the way to the babyhouse this morning. Nursultan agreed to stop at a WWII memorial in the little town that we pass through everyday. Here is what I saw-

A very moving farewell to fallen soliders.

A woman draws water up from a well and pours it into a large metal can. Her son sits on a fence and waits. Another local is on his way to the well with his bucket for pulling the water up and his large metal jug. There are lots of wells in this town and we see about a dozen people getting their water each day.


Tim got a picture that he's been wanting too. A mustang sign in Schuchinsk!
In other news, we have a very cute baby! Did you know? He was pretty cranky today because none of the babies would take their morning nap. All the same, he gave us a huge smile when we came in today, as if to say: "My Mommy and Daddy are here!"

We played for a little bit before he got super sleepy.

This is what Garrett looks like when he wants to take a nap and you won't let him. Poor little bumpkin!

When we were leaving for the day, the caregivers told us that Garrett (Ruslan as they call him) is a real American baby now because he has become more demanding. They say that we have spoiled him. I offered to take him off of there hands right now... but no luck!

Paka!

Becca